Sideways (2004) is widely considered to have heralded the death-knell for Merlot; whether it was the one line from the film or not, the reverberations are still being felt a decade later. And maybe avoiding certain commercially-made substandard offerings is a wise choice; as with every varietal, Merlot has its winners and its losers.

Let’s celebrate one of the world’s most important red grapes tonight.

On deck:

Pieropaolo Pecorari Venezia Giulia 2021

Chateau Virecort-Pillebourse Fronsac 2019

Hunt & Harvest Napa Valley 2016

Airfield Estates Yakima Valley 2021

Keenan Winery Napa 2021

$18/person. No reservations needed.